. L A U R A M E N S I N G A .

SWIMMING WITH THE SHARKS.

2011-09-27T00:55:00.004-04:00

I was really excited to show at Interbike 2011 in Las Vegas this month, as a contributing artist to the ARTCRANK exhibit. Pretty happy being kept in the company of Chris Piascik & Farizwan Fajari, among so many other fantastic artists! Next year I'll have to get down there myself!

ARTCRANK AT INTERBIKE!

2011-08-24T02:02:00.001-04:00

This September, ARTCRANK is happening for the first time ever at Interbike in Las Vegas, otherwise known as the largest bicycle expo in North America. And last week I found out that I've been selected to exhibit!

This is the first ARTCRANK showcasing work from the international bike community, and one I'm so excited to be a part of. Also, $5 from every poster sold, goes to People For Bikes, which is pretty rad.

So, now for the late night bike-themed poster making! Let's just say mine's an elegant interpretation of a quote by everyone's favourite Toronto mayor...

BFF TORONTO & BACK BREAKS.

2011-08-04T23:42:00.004-04:00

Next week the Bicycle Film Festival stops in Toronto. This year I've been more involved than ever in helping out. Among the many hours both behind and ahead of me - the lovely & talented graphic designer Frank Maidens & I worked together, to create a series of posters promoting the festival. His design saavy combined with my illustrating prowess. Go team!

So, while you may see them plastered all through Kensington, or alongside the bike lanes across our fair city, I swear it wasn't me you saw wheat pasting at 1 am..... :).

But next week it all goes down. art. films. parties. races. goldsprints. dancing. bikes.

AND the Canadian premiere of my short film FABRIC BIKE is happening at the Royal Theatre Saturday Aug 13th at 9 pm. Meanwhile, the fabric bike itself is going to be exhibited at the Gladstone Hotel, as a part of the Back Breaks exhibit opening wednesday Aug 10th at 6pm.

Excited!

All around, I'm still wrapping my head around the fact that our film is going to be touring with the festival across the world. But for now, you can check out the whole program & buy your tickets for Toronto's BFF HERE!

CALL.

2011-07-27T00:12:00.003-04:00

A poster I did for a short film in the works by Adam Bentley & Zenon Turczyn.

Incidentally, after this ridiculous heatwave, I feel no call to the city. AT. ALL. Rather I'm counting down the days til cottages, campfires & cliff jumping. Three to be exact.

FABRIC BIKE IN NEW YORK.

2011-06-21T13:14:00.005-04:00

So tomorrow's the big day. The one where we get up ridiculously early and drive 9 hours to the New York City, where the Bicycle Film Festival circut for 2011 begins Wednesday.

This year is a big one. My collective, The Deadly Nightshades are premiering our short film FABRIC BIKE (directed by Kirsten White & I) in the BFF's Urban Shorts Program. We are also exhibiting the bike itself at the opening for JOYRIDE in Soho.

This is my second time showing as artist at JOYRIDE in New York, but my first year participating in the festival as a film maker - and I think ecstatic is the only way to classify how I'm feeling right now.

JOYRIDE

Thursday, June 23rd

Spencer Brownstone Gallery

3 Wooster St

Opening: 6-9 pm

URBAN SHORTS

Saturday, June 25th

Anthology Film Archives

32 2nd Ave, at 2nd St.

Screenings: 6pm, 8pm & 10 pm

NORTHSIDE QUALIFIER!

2011-06-20T12:58:00.004-04:00

So the Northside Qualifier for NAHBPC is coming to Toronto in a few weeks, and I got to illustrate the tournament poster!

As for the tournie, we're pretty excited! And more importantly getting all our couches & floors ready for everyone we love coming in from out of town. Check out bikepolo.to for more details (on the tournament... not my couch).

THREE OH.

2011-06-11T19:43:00.009-04:00

Thirtieth birthdays for friends come but once. Good thing dance parties to the supremes & joe strummer can happen any old day. But on Friday, I decided to commemorate only one of those events with a poster.

Which made me think of the last birthday party I attended for the big 3-0, where I was forced to dress like loretta lynn and bike out to sunnyside pool. Some people say 30 is the new 20. I say 30 is the new off-season halloween danceparty.

Man I love my friends.

FABRIC BIKE!

2011-04-04T12:11:00.004-04:00

It's time. The top secret project will be secret no longer.

Over the past 3 months, my bicycle gang/arts collective The Deadly Nightshades have come together on a project that combines our love of fashion, art and cycling. Documenting our process step by step, we've created our ultimate bike out of unconventional materials - to scale, 3D and down to the tiniest detail. So, after hours of sewing, constructing, screen printing, problem solving, filming & editing - we reveal our top secret project, a sneak peek the bike that has (literally) taken over my life, and present the trailer for our short film FABRIC BIKE.

SCREENED SNOW.

2011-03-29T21:12:00.009-04:00

Despite that snow storm last week, I believe that warm weather is coming. Or rather, I am convincing myself of this fact. I biked home with no gloves on tonight, and willed my hands not to be cold. However, the warm light shifting across my studio floor was rather convincing, as I spent the afternoon silk-screening. Happily basking in it's faux summer glory with bare arms and an equally warm themed playlist swimming from my speakers.

I always forget how much I love to silk-screen. There is something undeniably satisfying in the ritual of it. The steady pressure. The repetition. The way you peel fabric off a wet screen like sun burnt skin. The ink staining your finger tips and forearms. Its precise and yet wily nature.

Today's project was a series of wedding invitations I designed & printed on vintage handkerchiefs. I thought them especially pretty strung across the room drying. Dozens blanketing the mantle, tables and floor. Like snow. My preferred alternative to the grey mounds clinging curbside outdoors.

LOVE LETTERS.

2011-02-04T00:12:00.009-05:00

Secret projects have been the name of the game since the new year.

They have consequently been dominating my free time, and causing me to neglect a number of other things - namely my own personal journalsketchbookextravaganza, indirectly my blog... and potentially doing my laundry. I have some pretty awesome collaborations in the works. Sculpture, installation, film & otherwise. A departure for me most definitely. But one I'm finding both challenging and motivating. Hopefully I'll have some teasers to post in the next few weeks. Big things & exciting times.

But in the meantime, a poster I designed for a post-valentines day show.

But love letters from a stranger? creepy concept? or just endearing... guess it depends on whether i'm a glass half empty or half full kinda girl, huh?

BUFFALOES & BULLS.

2011-01-11T13:24:00.006-05:00

My zodiac sign is Taurus. And while I may be loyal & good at holding my own, otherwise it's not a group of characteristics I've ever particularly related to. On top of that, visually I've always liked buffalos better than bulls.

Above is a tour poster I've been working on. Not done just yet - but I quite like it at this stage and wanted to share in the process.

TEA & TATTOOS.

2011-01-09T19:49:00.008-05:00

Holiday aftermath is good for two things 1. Leftovers. And 2. Getting to hang out with friends who've come back for the holidays - but have yet to return to their regular lives.

While drinking tea & eating zucchini muffins with one such friend - I was also able to photograph this tattoo design of mine. It was really exciting to finally see it in person, instead of over blurry skype attempts.

Thanks Doug for trusting me with your arm, and to the amazing Jeremy Riley at Tattoo Union in East Van, for executing this piece so beautifully.

Check out my original sketch here.

HIGHER, HIGHER.

2010-12-10T12:53:00.004-05:00

This autumn, I was invited to participate in the group installation "higher, HIGHER." The project showcases wooden swings designed by 40 emerging Toronto artists - and intends to promote communal play among adults, and create awareness for the artists at the Muki Baum Treatment Centre.

Recently, a smaller selection of pieces from the project (including mine) were exhibited at Studio Theatre. Eventually the entire series will be installed around 5 public parks across the city. To learn more about "higher, HIGHER" check out the project's artist statement.

JELLYFISH.

2010-12-02T15:33:00.009-05:00

Aside from art, my next creative love is definitely sewing - which has manifested itself, for the time being, in making one-of-a-kind bicycle seat covers! What's not to love? Recycled fabrics. Locally produced. Added comfort. Mad style. Doubles as a bag to keep your lights, gloves, & bike lock keys all in one place. Variety of sizing. AND customs on a request basis! Best ever, right? (I'm working on a bronze faux snakeskin neon yellow fringe one for myself as we speak).

They are already available on Etsy, AND for the next 12 days are showcased at the brand spankin' new Triangle Gallery - Artscape's latest addition to Toronto's Queen West arts district. So go check out the show (its FREE) & make your christmas shopping experience a less of a mall induced nightmare.

Also - as a total aside - apparently scanning bike seat covers, makes them look like jellyfish (my second favourite animal to fennec foxes). So I thought i'd include a quick drawing I did after visiting the Vancouver aquarium earlier this year. They're just so surreal & gorgeous & unsettling. I could watch them forever. for-ev-er.

LOSS.

2010-12-01T21:32:00.007-05:00

(click to enlarge)

Some things are easier to process via journalling. And even then, some things are easier to process in diagram form.

A wonderful brother, son, father, grandfather & friend - but to me, one fantastic uncle. You will be missed.

JIMMY.

2010-11-14T22:10:00.007-05:00

Took care of my friend Kirsten's bull terrier this weekend, and temporarily quenched my increasing desire to own a dog - especially a neurotic one, afraid of hardwood floors & jumping off beds, like Jimmy. There's just something so calming about a dog sprawled across your stomach.

BILL.

2010-11-10T20:17:00.007-05:00

Spent the last few days in Boston. A combination of bicycles, blankets, connie francis and a cat named bill murray. So loving & so so incredibly spiteful.

MANIC.

2010-10-27T11:51:00.004-04:00

Do you know what's the worst? Head colds. But, do you know what's the best? My Predators series hanging at Manic Coffee for the next few months. So go check them out & support an awesome independent fair/direct trade coffee shop at the same time.

AUGUSTINES.

2010-10-18T11:17:00.008-04:00

I know, I know - two blog posts in one day, but there are simply too many exciting things happening... and I've been itching to post this one for a while.

Over the past couple of months, I've had the privilege of working with Brooklyn-based Eric Sanderson & Billy McCarthy on their new project A U G U S T I N E S. Those who know me well, know I don't say this often - but, this is one of the best bands I've heard in a long long while.

Here is some product that I designed for their listener supported model. So go check them out & get involved. Their website went live today - and incidentally my favourite song on the album, is currently the free download!

FASHIONFRIDAY.

2010-10-18T10:35:00.007-04:00

A huge thanks to everyone who made it to the workshop on friday! And to all the lovely ladies at Freedom who facilitate such welcoming events. I was excited to meet lots of new people, but I think that's the work of Blog TO, over my own saavy marketing skills.

(photo by Ilona Pe)

WORKSHOP.

2010-10-13T10:09:00.009-04:00

This friday, I'm teaching an open-to-all fashion illustration workshop at Freedom Gallery - held in conjunction with my October exhibition CLOTHED MATTERS.

There will be some awesome drawing activities to start & life drawing to follow - featuring models & clothing from the Deadly Nightshades. After the workshop, an opening reception for the exhibit begins.

So come by early to make some friends & brush up on your drawing skills, or later to take in some art & have a drink.

FRIDAY, OCT 15, 2010

Freedom CC Gallery

939 Bloor St W.

illustration workshop: 8-10pm (PWYC)

opening reception: 10pm - midnight (FREE!)

LIEFDE.

2010-09-16T14:42:00.005-04:00

Two variations of an album cover I designed & illustrated for singer/songwriter Sarah Barry.

I had to laugh when I was given the album title though. Solely, because it reminds me of this song my sisters and I preformed at our aunt's wedding when i was ten. The song began with a prerecorded and overly dramatic swell of synthesizers, and us each saying "i love you" in a different language. During rehersals in our living room, my dad had thought it a grand ides to replace one of the other language options with Dutch, given our background. Good idea? Bad idea. I can tell you with all certainty that "Ik houd van u" from a ten year old in no way sounds graceful, or properly translated. (My pronunciation for anything other that english, is still horrific).

Thankfully this wonderful album, does not feature said track - or my accompanying ten year-old vocals.

MOMENTUM.

2010-08-29T19:00:00.006-04:00

I did the above for Vancouver-based Momentum Magazine. A great publication "for people who ride bikes" - they just get right to the point... and hopefully so did this graphic for their BikeStyle page!

SIBLINGS.

2010-08-25T15:05:00.006-04:00

My foray into the world of graphic novels. In this case, just a proposal for someone else. But I have my own exciting things on the horizon. Just you wait...(!)

This page in particular was really fun to work on. I'm the youngest in a family of all girls, so needless to say I had hoards of visual memories to draw upon for those photos - some better left forgotten. My middle sister returned to Toronto for a visit just last week, and it's always so hard to see her go back home. As contrived as it may sound, I love that I'm as close with my siblings as I am. Oddly enough, talented photographer & my wonderful friend Rosalie Villanueva, blogged about something similar just the other day. Yay sisters!

COTTAGEMADONNA.

2010-08-03T15:07:00.003-04:00

MONSTERBOTS.

2010-07-29T17:36:00.005-04:00

Above is my favourite part of the last sleeve I designed for my good friend Roberto. During our initial consult he asked me to create something creepy, but cute.

So, this is for you Bots. I think it fits the bill.

Also, a huge thanks for everyone who made it out to my opening at Freedom last friday. And for those of you who were cottaging or camping or roadtripping (or partaking in some other glorious summer fun) instead. Don't worry! It's up til August 10th...you've got loads of time.

KITE.

2010-07-25T12:03:00.004-04:00

I was kindly asked by Freedom CC to illustrate the header on their newsletter this month. So here's what embodies this season to me - under water kites.

NIGHT SWIM.

2010-07-19T15:50:00.006-04:00

These are the months that bring late night pool hopping & early afternoon sunburns, they also bring art shows (my second of the summer and definitely not the last, so stay tuned). Opening this friday at Freedom CC Gallery, come and check out this piece and other selections from my "into the woods" series.

opening!

Friday, July 23rd

Freedom CC Gallery

939 Bloor St. W

Toronto, ON

(exhibit runs jul 23 - aug 10)

JABBERBOOMBOX.

2010-07-11T14:19:00.011-04:00

Apparently, this is the summer of sleeve designs for me. Working on another as we speak. Thanks to Julia & Doug respectively, for entrusting me with the task, as well as giving me awesome subject matter. (I've decided it will also be the summer of making my back yard into a temporary studio. Yes to sunshine & freelancing!)

DASH.

2010-07-07T22:19:00.013-04:00

No more mosquitos. Just smog.

Back in Toronto. Not New York or the north any more. And while it's so nice to be home, both of the above, although entirely different, were unbelievable.

My exhibit in Tribeca was fantastic. So many people came out, it was eventually broken up by the NYPD. This shot is of only part of the crowds that swarmed Dash Gallery, and it doesn't even do them justice.

I met lots of great people & saw some amazing art. So, thanks BFF for an amazing festival as always, and to all my friends from Toronto, Vancouver & Brooklyn - who made the trek to show some support! It's pretty crazy to feel that loved.

To see what I was showing in NYC go HERE! And if you look around my website, you'll find some other stuff I've been working on lately too!

So far this year is shaping up to be really great! Feeling pretty stupidly happy these days. Thanks summer! Time to build a bike, go to the island and write some letters.

JOYRIDE.

2010-06-13T23:17:00.013-04:00

Trees to tall buildings.

So this week, I'm exhibiting at the Bicycle Film Festival's art show JOYRIDE in New York! The BFF is an amazing international festival celebrating bikes through film art & music. It's always great people, a great party, and something I'm so proud to be a part of - especially as they celebrate their 10th anniversary.

I'll be exhibiting alongside a pretty rad line up of artists, including Spike Jonze, Tom Sachs, WK Interact & Benny Zenga among others. So if you're in the area, come say hey & check out a fantastic show:

THURSDAY JUNE 17TH

DASH GALLERY

172 DUANE ST

NEW YORK, NY

6-10PM

MERMAID.

2010-06-07T10:58:00.005-04:00

One week alone equals headway on four different tattoo commissions, significant progress on my exhibition in july, five books read, and a sixth half done.

Apparently I should do this more often.

Above is one of my favourite pieces thus far in a new series. And below is one of my favourite moments from all that literature:

"the questions i really wanted to ask were, 'are you in love?' and 'what are you reading?'"

A revolution of small talk, i wish i had the guts to institute today. Who doesn't love scandelous 19 year old french authors from the 1950's.

DOCK.

2010-06-04T10:19:00.003-04:00

One of my three favourite places in the world, is on a dock.

Somewhere you can feel alone, but not lonely. For me, it's where I've always felt most myself. And despite whatever else is going on in life, grounded.

Thunderstorms have held the week hostage, so my time by the water had been limited thus far. But, between downpours I went. An oversized sweater. A mug of tea. The lake a grey haze, and planks of wood underfoot black and bloated with constant rain.

I sat and watched the water and sketched. And I have to say lakes are an entirely different beast than oceans. Especially calm ones.

BLUE.

2010-06-02T12:14:00.004-04:00

I know it sounds crazy. But I'm being stalked by a blue jay. Like every time I go outside, he's there.... watching me.

I swear the woods haven't gotten to me yet.

SUSTAIN.

2010-05-31T11:09:00.009-04:00

Days one and two in the woods have consisted of giant power tools, putting up drywall, hammering in salvaged trim and other stuff with my Dad. And I'm pretty okay with that. Day three is the beginning of isolation (with the exception of quick jaunts into town on my bike.... like right now to the only local coffee shop with wifi) & some quality dock/art time.

But while I'm up here - back in Toronto, this poster I designed and illustrated is a part of the Subtle Technology Festival to promote sustainability... and in this poster's case, the Deadly Nightshades.

So go check out the festival and poster exhibition, curated by Lorena Salome:

June 4 - 6

Innis Town Hall

University of Toronto

WALDEN.

2010-05-28T10:53:00.008-04:00

One night we were going to a concert, when a friend found this on the ground outside the Biltmore in Vancouver. And I have to say, I'm all about to do lists (especially this one). Firstly, you feel an instant sense of accomplishment in writing one. And secondly, there is something unbelievably satisfying about crossing something off.

My never ending to do list is comprised of many things. One of which is to live at my family's half finished cabin for a while.

~~to live at the cabin for a while.~~

done.

So moved out of my apartment. leaving behind barren walls and better acoustics. And instead have headed north with a duffel bag, bicycle, copious amounts of art supplies and a fully stocked ipod.

For me, art & music have always gone hand in hand. So today, instead of a drawing (as there will be many in the weeks to come), a mixtape of sorts.

1. it's a long way to the top - disco drive

2. oh, alberta - elliot brood

3. undercover martyn - two door cinema club

4. birdies singing - kelley stoltz

5. kassell - the clips

6. fight and kiss - we are wolves

7. my year in lists - los campesinos!

8. baby boomer - monsters of folk

9. the gayest of sunbeams - pink mountaintops

10. cannibal resource - dirty projectors

11. consolation prize - julie doiron

12. when i'm small - phantogram

13. you can't say - white denim

14. stay (just a little bit more) - the do

15. little bit - lykke li

16. the gardener - the tallest man on earth

17. great lakes - rae spoon

18. horny hippies - the dodos

19. tan lines - valleys

20. 100 pound eyelids - chad vangaalen

21. don't ask - grizzly bear

(...you can anticipate a considerably more bushwhackeddockrockcabinfever version in a months time. Get ready for my impending insanity).

WORN.

2010-05-26T23:08:00.007-04:00

So, I was asked to illustrate a button for WORN fashion journal's 10th issue launch.

If you're in Toronto, check out their awesome launch party this friday at Cinecycle (which is a gem all of it's own).

Also, who doesn't love vests?

HEATWAVE.

2010-05-24T13:22:00.006-04:00

The last few days officially marked the beginning of summer. I find myself at the end of the weekend with hair that smells like campfire smoke, a sunburn, more money, less stuff to pack or throw away, and sand.... everywhere. Strange how this time of year all i want to listen to is old punk bands I loved in highschool, east coast hip hop and never ending motown - as though nothing else seems quite as satisfying.

And so my favouite motown track & some sketches from this past weekend to kick off the summer.

Heat Wave – Martha and the Vandellas

MP3 search on MP3hunting

PURGE.

2010-05-15T15:39:00.007-04:00

I move in two weeks.

Packing is a dangerous thing. Because packing leads to sorting. And sorting leads to finding all of those things better left forgotten. The ones you wonder why you've kept for so long. Items that once meant so much, and now mean so very little. Or rather mean something else entirely.

I'll be the first to admit i'm a pack rat. But an organized one if that's possible.

I began collecting vintage suitcases when i was thirteen. And now each one sits, brimming with tokens intending to be memories.

And so in an attempt to purge before the move, I sorted through them for the first time... ever?

Least favourite finds include: angsty cassette tapes of me and my guitar in early highschool (yikes. drama... although found a song about my roommate's dog, which is pretty funny), a script involving the entire character casts of star wars - the original obviously - indiana jones and batman foever (my 11 year old self = the worst...or best?) & extensive comics about my best friends in middle school (yes we were superheroes, no you can't see them).

Most favourite finds include: MY POGS (as if!), hoards of long forgotten photobooth photos (grade two neon jackets, to blue hair, to no hair, to friends i don't talk to anymore, to ones i surprisingly do, etc etc). And finally, this epic shot my sister took while i was finishing up grade five (or perhaps wrapping up a hard life on the road?).

...and for the record, the next person to take photobooth photos with me WINS. I knew something was lacking in my life, now i know what - an awkward succession of overpriced miniature photographs, equalling instant nostalgia.

DEADLY.

2010-05-09T14:31:00.011-04:00

In the past little while I have been reminded why I love my bike gang as much as I do. Aside from impeccable style and adventurous spirit (such as playing bike polo for the first time the other day. terrifying & hilarious - I don't recommend using one's large cruiser, as tight turns are impossible and I nearly impaled myself multiple times on oversized handlebars), if nothing else, fierce loyalty & integrity go a long way in my books. Kudos kids.

And a sample of one of the new fonts I designed for our new & upcoming website.

NEST.

2010-05-06T12:57:00.007-04:00

I’ve been a bit of an insomniac lately, and when i do sleep, it’s been full of strange dreams.

Yesterday i had three. You know the type, the ones that bleed into the next.

In the first, I was sailing a gigantic ship over enormous waves in the middle of cottage country. But the ship would bend over each wave, like a rubber sole, so that the masts would cross. Despite being thrown about the rigging, everyone (being miscellaneous friends i couldn’t place) seemed pretty happy. The sun was blinding, and we would high five every time the masts bent close enough.

And then, it was night and David Suzuki was trying to teach my crew, the “dangers of isolation while ice fishing,” by dramatically faking a suicide and throwing himself off an ice flow (why one would fish off an ice flow is beyond me). But, just as we were getting worried, he popped back up grinning wildly, and lifts something above his head. “Don’t worry I have a secret rope!” and pulled himself back up and out of the black water.

And then, I woke up the next morning to find a birds nest at the back of my head. Literally. My hair had been woven into a tiny basket. My dream self was confused as to how this might have happened, and eventually concluded that a group of swallows must have come and done it while i slept.

And then my real self woke up (it's always strange waking up twice), and thought it was such a bizarre and pretty little image that i had to draw it immediately.

RESOLVE.

2010-05-04T23:29:00.006-04:00

It was my birthday friday.

A weekend where the air was heavy with spring rain. Thunderstorms that have been skirting the edges of the weather forecast for the last few days.

A weekend of grainy slides projected across darkened living rooms, and my nephew blowing out my candles before i had the chance. A weekend of crowded backyards and clusters of bicycles like metal bouquets. A weekend of campfires and the silhouetted backs of houses. A brick fortress with blackened windows.

For as long as I can remember, it’s a day that feels more like new years than january 1st. It’s always coinsided with the start of warmer weather, the end of school (when that was remotely relevent), and I suppose the illusion of a fresh start. If I were the sort of person to make resolutions I might do them now. But I find it kind of silly to make promises to yourself only once a year. I’d like to think that one can be capable of change and/or challenging oneself at any time, and not strictly during the first few weeks of january.

So in the spirit of change and of challenge, the largest pen & ink piece i’ve done to date - a commissioned work, inspired by the series did back in 2008, measuring 2’x3’.

Funny how i’ve now done not one, but two, queen of hearts portraits, as she is probably the one whom i relate to least in a deck of cards.

I’ve always been a fan of the queen of spades myself.

BARE.

2010-04-13T22:41:00.005-04:00

Check out my brand spankin' new WEBSITE(!)..... aaaand just cause I like you, a sneak peek at the new series of oil paintings I'm working on.

xo.

WEST.

2010-04-06T22:48:00.007-04:00

I spent the early part of this year, shifting between the isolated wilds of northern alberta and the warm coast of british colombia. Both provinces contained a barrage of new friends, that felt like old ones. Months of living out stories, instead of retelling the ones that have already happened. And since the moment my plane has touched down in toronto, it’s as though i’ve hit the ground running.

This entire year so far has been an acceleration of tiny moments, that feel like big ones.

I finished this tattoo design in the rainy coffee shops of east van, for a roommate i left in alberta. And while i’m so glad to be home, it reminds me fondly of wood paneled motel rooms, and the muddy backs of pick up trucks.

RETIRED.

2010-03-26T18:12:00.002-04:00

FLIGHT.

2010-03-12T19:20:00.001-05:00

"cause the more you live in a certain way the less it feels like freedom."

two months out west & i'm finally home.

WONDERLAND?

2009-12-15T23:22:00.000-05:00

oh hey there winter. you're back.

MANOS... MAN.

2009-12-01T22:00:00.002-05:00

In light of Rwanda joining the commonwealth.... thought I'd post a vaguely, vaguely related piece. Last month I illustrated an album cover for the hilarious & amazing, singer-songwriter Sarah Barry... there are few people in this world who share my passion for horrible grating b-movies (local cast?!), and thankfully she is one of them...

The following, is a one of the intial designs for her cover, but not the final version. It's a project I was proud to be a part of. The album was inspired by the time she spent in Zambia last year, and helps support the Esther School - an environmentally sustainable and self sufficient initiative, which will provide free education to orphaned and underprivileged children in Chongwe, Zambia.

In other news, I've started a new series. Too bad I've picked such of horrible season to start painting with oils again... go mittens!

FOX.

2009-11-12T23:39:00.001-05:00

One perk of knowing people with cute babies, is that they are ridiculously fun to draw. Another perk, is when said people, decide to start their own cloth diaper companies. Hence, an illustration I did for the lovely Canadian-made Hen & Chick.

CALAMITY.

2009-10-29T21:37:00.000-04:00

Hallowe'en is tomorrow. What better a time then to whip out one's cowboy boots and dollar store pistols.

Incidently, tonight's rad costume party & episode taping of Late Night in the Bedroom at Whippersnapper Gallery, conveniently coincides with the last evening of my art exhibit there. While, smaller prints of that same series (girls. stripes. hats) have just started being sold at the lovely new Industrees Gallery down the street.

So go. Dress up as Micheal Jackson like everyone else, and check out some art!

CONVICT.

2009-10-09T00:58:00.000-04:00

Kathryn left for South Africa last week. Two years ago, it was us exploring that continent as a duo. And I must admit if there was a way I could have smuggled myself into her luggage this time around, I would have done so in a heart beat. It's funny how those four months felt like a lifetime, a completely different lifetime at that.

I really do miss it. A strange thing to articulate.

I designed this tattoo for my buddy Ryan after he'd spent some time in a refugee camp in Ghana with Journalists for Human Rights. I'm happy to see the sentiment still remains relevant as he recently took over an editing position at Me To We here in Toronto.

Cheers to friends who turn their passions into a day to day reality.

(...and k. You'll be fabulous. I miss you as always, and pray for safe travels & hilarious adventures along the way).

WAIT/WEIGHT.

2009-06-10T23:31:00.002-04:00

I think one of the best and worst feelings in the world is waking up in an overheated tent. Warm muted light and twisted sleeping bags. Air you swim through, rolling towards an exit. Camping is a must this year, hopefully, even before the month is out.

Although, I must admit I feel cheated by the weather lately. So ready for summer, and yet it is being rather withholding. Docks and lakes and bicycles in sundresses. Car trips with the windows down, oversized sunglasses and my feet on the dash. Instead, I am left with a mediocre spring. Boring.

In the meantime, I’ve been catching up on my reading (villain-off…it’s a toss up), fleshing out my selection of summer tunes ( angry acordians = true love) & drawing lots for work. Unfortunately this means not a whole lot of drawing for myself. But I am getting to establish an illustration style for existing products. It’s bizarre, creating a hybrid aesthetic. Finding consistency without losing a sense of self.

Anyhow, since I’m feeling guilty, I thought I’d post another (perhaps my favourite) from my latest series. All five inhabited the lovely Mercury Espresso Bar on queen east for the last month, and I must say between this and my show in parkdale, the response has been lovely. Thanks all.

FEAT.

2009-05-12T18:49:00.001-04:00

early stages of a poster design including two of my favourite things: bicycles & victrolas.

I am already counting down the days until summer.

JUMP.

2009-04-16T00:45:00.003-04:00

I wish I wrote more these days. My journal a sea of empty pages. Yet, instead of waves of illegible ramblings, I've completed a new series.

To see this work in full, and more like it, check out my upcoming exhibit:

JUMP
Great Hall Gallery
1087 Queen St W
April 23rd -30th.

AKIN.

2009-03-05T22:42:00.000-05:00

So, I've never owned a digital camera. For years now, me and my trusty k1000 have been attached at the hip... or should i say neck.

There's just something about shooting film. The limits of 24 frames and low lighting. The unexpected exposures, and awkward photos that go un-deleted.

However, when it comes to quickly documenting art, this creates a problem. Pieces that don't fit on the screen of a scanner, leave me to desperate measures:

web cam.
(shameful. i know.)

Web cam is a the equivelent of a budget cell phone camera. And, at least on my part leads to occasional mishaps. Tonight's mishap = myself adjusting lighting sources, to capture a new painting, and clumsily knocking my keyboard.

Yet, the eerie part, is how reminiscent I find this image to a series of windy sketches I did on a windy day, the other week. Bizarre. (do you know what's also bizarre? The fact that my nostrils are so wildly crooked. who knew? thanks accidental webcam!)

here are some favourites, from all that sketching.

BEST.

2009-02-24T00:57:00.000-05:00

So, not much to say, except that this always cheers me up. Like... always. Happy monday!

LITERACY.

2009-02-18T22:48:00.001-05:00

(click to enlarge)

The Bell Jar was one of those books you should have read in high school, but didn’t. I sure didn’t. It was only last summer that I bought a dog-eared copy in northern Ontario, and completed it in two days; shifting between my sun bleached dock and uneven decking.

That august, my favourite passage of hers, was this -

- Piece by piece, I fed my wardrobe to the night wind, and flutteringly, like a loved one's ashes, the gray scraps were ferried off, to settle here, there, exactly where I would never know, in the dark heart of New York.

She decribes the city, the same way I would describe the Rockies at night, as having - doused its lights in sleep, its buildings blackened, as if for a funeral.

Two summers ago, I drove across the country in that cracked-windshield-no-brake-pads-beast featured on his forearm. The first night was spent sandwiched between sleeping transport trucks on the side of the winding highway, somewhere between Sicamous and Golden, British Columbia. We drank wine out of water bottles. Ate nachos & salsa in a cooking pot. Wrapped in sleeping bags on the hood of the car. Dwarfed by silhouetted mountains.

That night, my favourite observation of his, was this -

- The sky looks like an old t-shirt under a black light.

(Thanks to the ever-talented Liz at Passage Tattoos, co-designer & executer, as well as my buddy Tristan for letting me exploit his unfinished work. yay!)

EXTEND.

2009-02-16T17:39:00.000-05:00

An extended hiatus. but now that my computer is finally fixed... an extended sketch from life drawing at vintage 69 by the pound.

xo.
l.

ENGAGE.

2009-01-25T21:41:00.000-05:00

She grimaced mid sit. Chewing sour patch kids methodically, playing with her necklace. We talked about bad roommates and the reason for a bike gang tattoo.

Of which there were many.

And while I agree with all of her reasoning, one idea resonated more perhaps, than the rest. Maybe because it is easily overlooked. Yet it is arguably one of my own primary motivating factors in using a bicycle.

The idea that to bike, is to interact with your city. To obtain a different vantage point. A way to be a part of something, instead of merely observing it.

So, here’s the final version for a lovely lady - and the only person I have ever ridden a tandem bicycle with…something surprisingly difficult when two very confident bikers are involved.

ENGRAVE.

2009-01-11T15:54:00.000-05:00

Over the past year, I've been priveledged with requests to design some tattoos for a few close friends. I must admit it is a bit of a bizarre process. A combination of personal aesthetic, with concept, with adaptabilty. Oddly enough, I think my pattern drafting past, strangely compliments tattoo design - the ability to fit a two dimensional shape to a three dimensional form.

Contrary to public opinion I often feel that tattoo art is one of the least permanent art forms. A work with a set lifespan. There is a fluidity to a tattoo. An image that will bleed and fade. Edges that will blur and slowly alter with age. It is like art in motion. A nostalgic installation piece of sorts. An image that will embody a moment, an experience, a lifestyle that will be remembered in different ways at different times.

This sketch was part of the ideation process for my lovely friend Niamh's foot. It didn't make the final cut. But I like it anyway.

INCLEMENT.

2009-01-06T18:14:00.000-05:00

Been stuck inside lately with a nasty chest cold. Can't say i'm actually all that sad about it. Bundle up kids.

RESOLVE.

2009-01-03T14:41:00.000-05:00

okay okay.

so new year. new years resolutions. I tend to be exceptionally bad at keeping said resolutions, so I'd like to keep it simple. I resolve to begin an art blog. and update it. frequently.

To start things off, here's one of my favourite pieces from 2008. It is part of a portrait series; a redesigned deck of cards I exhibited last summer and the artist statement I never included.

enjoy.
I am horribly unathletic.

My mom taught me how to shuffle when I was seven. The arch bridged between my thumb and forefinger, slotting mechanically into place. Suits and suicide kings. Summers of gin rummy and euchre sliding across picnic tables. This series is a collection of the girls that fill out my existence, in my only form of competition.

stand still.

2008-02-05T18:30:00.001-05:00

Spent an afternoon on the beach by the worthington pier. Bundled in sweaters, casting long shadows across the sand. It always feels late in the day here, what with sunlight shifting horizontal along the ground. We watched the rising tide, with sneakers dug into beach and talked about regrets. I aim to regret little. If anything i concede to reconsider.

I have determined that I like to watch the water crash into shore. There is something enternally familiar about it, regardless of where you find yourself in the world. I am instantly grounded. I felt the same in Watamu, despite the difference in temperature and colour of sand. Miles of white vs. fields of weather beaten pebbles. I am home.

I think I am going to live in Brighton.

London has yet to win me over. It is like a friend of a friend that i know i should get along with, but don't. Someone I share much in common with, but cannot seem to make small talk. A city I need to gain approval from. Yet a city that also needs to win my affection. And I don't think either of us are up for it.

We are at a stand still, London and I.

(Also, the fact the metro costs 4£ each ride, doesn't help things. Oh, how i miss the TTC).

So, while I make up my mind, I get to run about the english countryside with Rosalie.

(i guess i lied about the no more pictures. go friends with digital cameras!)

xo
l.

my favourite viewfinder.

2008-01-22T17:54:00.001-05:00

The last few weeks have been an ongoing shift of new cities and consquential adventures. It has been holding a viewfinder up to my eyes and slowly dragging down that black arm. The scrape against red plastic. A rotating wheel of slides. A click and you are somewhere brand new.

Holland. Belgium. France. Switzerland.

I have decided that travelling alone induces good conversation. And while i tend not to be an advocate for small talk, i have found myself making friends along the way. Allowing myself to be open, when I usually tend to be withdrawn in new surroundings. My hostel in Brugge was an immediate family. It was a continuous pasta boiling, tea drinking, card playing marathon. Along with being a beautiful village, i loved having a sense of community.
Brussels was beautiful, but isolating.
Lyon had a gritty sort of charm.

But in the end, I think my favourite place was Chamonix. The heart of the French Alps. Albeit touristy, it was a town the carbon-copy-banff-whistler-blue-mountain-villages could only dream of one day replicating. My hostel was rugged at best. But I was happy with the metal frame bed, ancient lumpy mattresses, petrol burners in the kitchen, and a resident cocker spaniel. Belle-amie. (Yes, I miss my dog.) And the combination of people present, was more than entertaining. Marriage proposals, to drinking red wine out of bowls, to lazy afternoons of "planet earth" in snowpants.

Yet, more importantly, snowboarding the alps was unbelieveable. And even that is an understatement.

White peaks. Deep vallies lined with enormous pines. A thick blanket of snow. A post card never-ending. During my first cable car ride up Mt. Brement, I definitely said "this. is. crazy." an embarrassing number of times. But it was.

The entire week I felt as though i was on the most elaborate movie set. With one light tap of my fingertips, the scerary would topple over. Two-dimensional high peaked dominoes. All the while under a barrage of fat snowflakes.

I loved it.

I did not however, love sleeping in the Geneva aiport. Concrete floors are officially the devil.

But, back in Holland now.

I have spent the last few days soaring around the dutch countryside on a borrowed bicycle. Much too big for me, my tip toes grazing the pedals. A little kid attempting to ride her older sibling's bike. Teetering along, swerving down back streets. White knuckles, three sweaters and countless back roads. It has been nice.

I have drank endless cups of tea, read even more, and contemplated cutting off my hair.

I travelled to Kettle on the weekend, and found the house my dad was born in. A crooked little brick duplex. A house leaning precariously overhead, playing chicken with the ground. It helps to make my father's history feel a little more real. This part of his life has always been difficult to grasp. The first seven years, in a fabricated place i could never relate to. Flat open spaces and family bicycle trips.

My dad immigrated to Canada on a ship in 1953. He once told me, his first orange was on that ship. He liked it so much he didn't eat it, and it finally went bad. I have always liked that image. A little blonde version of my father, cradling a fruit he refused to eat.

Tomorrow i go to Friesland. The place my grandparents met during the war. Teenagers. The farmlands where my grandma grew up. The area my grandfather entered into the underground.

Now the challenge will be nagivating the non existant transit system of the north. Then off to London.

xo.
l.

one warzone to another.

2008-01-05T13:22:00.001-05:00

We left flew out of Nairobi the day of the presidential elections at 11 o clock pm. Spent most of the day indoors, glued to BBC. The streets of nairobi were dead as we drove across the city to the airport. And now only nine days later the city is littered with riot teams, and families burying their dead.

From the bustling city i nagivated not even two weeks ago, it is something incredibly hard to believe.

The worst i experienced during my time in Kenya comes no where close to what is currently taking place. Although i think i recieved my first taste of injustice.

We bribed two corrupt security guards to get Kathryn's camera back. Apparently, a photo of a palm tree = compromising national security, and a camera constitutes "evidence." I have never been more livid in my entire life, and never more aware of my inability to reason with an irrational giant clutching an ak-47 in my direction.

So it looks as if i exchanged the escalating warzone of Nairobi for the visual one of Amsterdam on new years. A strange trade off.

Dam square and the surrounding area is a complete battle field. Thousands of people set off endless fireworks for hours after midnight. Littering the cobblestone and canals of an old city. The streets a solid wall of smoke. Shifting red, engulfing. Dodging fire crackers tossed carelessly or deliberately in our direction.

So the night was spent wandering the canal system watching fireworks bloom above the silouetted row houses in the rain. Arm in arm with two of my oldest and closest friends.

And now i have put them both on trains to the airport. I feel as though i may be a little lost in the days to come. I begin the new year alone. But it is a challenge i am ready for.

So I have filled my backpack full of sweaters, clementines and delicious dutch cheese. Bought a slew of used books at a market the other day, and am mapping out my next route.

(i raise your vintage 'as i lay dying' with a 1st run graham greene).

Also, i think that only an obscenely long train ride, with no friends, could possibly motivate me to read the grapes of wrath.

Otherwise i will just look out the window at pretty windmills.

l.

(By the way, with my friends gone, this is the last of the pictures you will see till i get home. Go film!)

christmasss.

2007-12-28T04:16:00.001-05:00

well. first off. merry belated christmas. i feel as though i have fallen behind in my blogging, with little to no hope of catching up, in any sort of accurate way. so we will pretend as if the past month or so has not occurred, and we will continue from here. There is much to tell, but to be honest i dont particularly feel up to the task. i dont really even know where to begin. how to sum up my experiences in africa, when i cant even quite grasp them myself.

i am currently sitting bundled in sweaters in the ywam residences in Epe, Holland. It is here that we are visiting with my dad's cousin Carla. We arrived from Nairobi this morning, i barely slept on our red eye, and now i find myself slightly disoriented. Flip flops to winter boots. Slums to quaint villages.

In the past week, i have swam in the indian ocean, and camped outside the masai mara. On December 25th, i woke up in a tent, watched crazy amounts of animals, and then our van broke down in the rift valley. We stood on the side of the road befriending police officers at a check point, holding up a makeshift "merry christmas" sign to passing cars and cattle trucks. If that doesnt feel festive, i dont know what does.

happy holidays.

l.

leaving.

2007-12-18T11:08:00.001-05:00

this is us being happy in rwanda...

again...

and again...
and lots more too.

and now we are leaving tomorrow and i am not so happy.

l.

canned hotdogs = christmas time.

2007-12-03T09:33:00.001-05:00

So my mom emailed me the other day that there is snow on the ground in Toronto. Something hard to believe when I spend my days here running about in a sundress and flip flops, trying my hardest not to get a sunburn, this close to the equator. If it wasn't for the fake christmas trees on sale downtown, between leftover halloween masks and canned hotdogs, I would have difficulty believing it at all.

I only have a week and a 1/2 left in rwanda. Christmas will be in kenya. New years in amsterdam. And if how quickly the past three months have gone is any indication, this will be over before i know it. I feel as though it was only last week i stepped through the metal detectors at pearson, as my dad attempted to take photos and was stopped by airport security. It is hard to know where the past few months have gone. Yet in the same vein, it feels like yesterday that i was sitting on the wooden steps down to a frozen dock, ringing in the new year all alone. The lake an expanse of slate and quiet. I had escaped just after sunrise, tiptoeing between my sleeping comrades to make the drive between haliburton and severn bridge. The first morning of 2007 spent speeding down abandoned highways in northern ontario. the radio up and the windows down despite the cold. Where has the past year gone.

I am conflicted on leaving. at the moment kigali is making me feel unbelievably clausterphobic. part of me thinks that this is yet another round of feeling overwhelmed here. Of surveying the work i have done, but having difficulty seeing its affect to the larger picture of this country. Of witnessing the intense poverty here, and wondering if there really is a solution to such a complex sitation. and so i want to run, because i do not know how to process all of this. Four months, and i still cannot. Although i am of the mind that if i were to spend four years here, and i would still have no better grasp on things than i do at the moment. I cannot quite explain it.

On the other hand, perhaps this merely a defense mechanism kicking in. That I intentionally make myself dissatisfied with a place, because i know in reality it is going to be excrtiating to leave. This way, by feeling closed in upon, leaving will feel like a realease. And then when the time comes to go, it will be positive instead of negative.

I think this is all combined with the fact that part of me resents that kathryn is going home. And yet at the same time i don't. Part of me knows that once the novelty of seeing everyonehas worn off, i would wish i was still far far away. I suppose the uncertainty of the next few months is getting to me . And yet i love the uncertain. Perhaps that is the real problem. That life in kigali has become perdictable. even the unexpected ridiculous events, are to be expected. I am ready for a change.

And then i remind myself, when i am jealous of kathryn's soon to be triumphant return to canada, that toronto is not that change that is nee. At this point it is still reverting.

I suppose it is simply a strange time of year to be away from home. And despite my nerosis, it is going to be hard to leave Africa. I am not used to saying permanent good-byes.

l.

ethiopian food vs. the bad place

2007-11-21T09:44:00.001-05:00

(...too much is happening. hence oldish news. old = 2 weeks.)

This is a culture of apology. Or perhaps one of concern lost in translation. I trip on the bricks infront of my house, my guard says he is sorry. I drop a pot of water preparing tea for some students of mine, they are both sorry too. I sneeze, sorry. I forget my keys, sorry.

Or the other night, when Kathryn and I ventured to an Ethiopian restaurant in Remera. Mistaking an entire hot pepper for a green one, she begins involuntarily crying, and the old men two tables over are…sorry. I wasn’t sorry, I just laughed. I am a bad friend. That is why I swallowed a hot pepper accidently a few minutes later too. Serves me right.

The incessant burning resulted in a trek across town to find ice cream, our moto drivers thinking us completely insane.

Fitting for the week. Try explaining why white water rafting is fun to Rwandans who don’t like the rain. Chalk that up there with explaining the purpose of Halloween. Pure insanity. And while we might not have celebrated Halloween this weekend (that was two weeks ago), we did go rafting.

So, last Thursday we left for Uganda. After an eight hour bus ride, we arrived in Kampala. A large grimy city, which oddly reminded me of Toronto. Perhaps the sheer size of if, rather than the cows eating from garbage piles. But, I awoke the next morning to rain on the roof of our banda and monkies in the trees, so I was happy enough.

(said monkey in tree)

We spent the morning visiting the Kasumi Tombs for the Bugandan Kings. Where we had to wear makeshift skirts, and discuss Idi Amin with a primary class, along with our favourite foods, and whether or not boys actually wet the bed. However, in afternoon, we headed to chill and raft in Jinja for a few days. A town on the shores of Lake Victoria, and home to the source of the White Nile River.

Four days after the fact and I was still incredibly stiff and sore. It is like a morning after snowboarding, when you wake up and all your muscles seem to cry out at once. All I wanted was a hot bath, and yet I was greeted only by a bucket of cold water. Yet, despite this, the sunburns and sore muscles, it was entirely worth it.

Two rafts. Our raft was eight in total; three serbians in teeny scarring bathing suits, three canadians (including Kathryn and i), one brit with two black eyes face planting the water when bungee jumping, and one kiwi, our guide Ruben. A funny fowl mouthed burly blonde boy who clearly thought the world of himself, but seemed to think the world of you too. So it was more endearing then anything else. Add five Ugandan safety kayakers, one more in a safety raft.and set us adrift on grade 5 rapids. A motley crew to say the least.

The entire experience was unbelievable. I think that is the most accurate way to describe it. You would descend these giant walls of water, to be greeted by another rising ominously in the other side. But first you would hover above, as if in slow motion. Everything quiet, deafened by the roar of the rapids. And for this split second you could watch these fields of churning water. Waves braiding themselves down the river. Tying themselves in knots then slowly unravelling and unfurling into massive pools. This moment amidst beauty with your heart in your throat. And then the moment would pass, time would resume itself, and you would begin sliding swiftly forward, as the walls came crashing down on all sides.

Sometimes we would tip. Sometimes we would not, raising our paddles in the air, an act of triumph. However, the times we tipped were more frequent then the times we did not.

One instant it was blue skies, the next churning white, and then black. Two invisible hands grasping at your ankles, pulling you further and further into the depths. A twisting tunnel, forcing you forward through the muffled roar and out the other side. Alice in her rabbit hole. I would resurface choking & grinning.

This process quickly became par for the course.

One time only the boys fell out. Another instance (over a sixteen foot waterfall), it was only Ruben who went shooting over our heads. Grimacing, he swam his way back to our laughing raft. But most often, we all went tumbling over the red sides into the frothing mass below. After one such instance, I made it onto the safety raft with nearly all of our paddles. Hauled up by the operator, an entertaining Ugandan boy named Peter (who told me that he had been a mzungu from Vancouver in a past life). We were too close to the next rapid to return me or our gear. So peter and I laughed and laughed as we watched my raft attempt to navigate the next rapid with only two paddles. Miraculously they made it out in one piece.

But, the last rapid was the most intimidating. Itanda Falls, otherwise known as “the bad place.” And as we soon learned, aptly named. Although, as of the other night, we have concluded that Ethiopian food is more painful then the bad place.

The river was lined with locals, watering long horned cows, washing clothes, or simply observing the spectacles that are the Jinja rafting companies. We had to portage around the first part; a grade six rapid. But it was enormous so setting ourselves adrift part way through was terrifying enough. We flipped in the middle of the river, and were promptly pulled under. A downwards spiral of liquid fists and actual limbs. I cannot tell you how long I was under the first time. But my lungs were screaming by the time I surfaced, only to be pulled immediately under again. This pattern repeated itself another two or three times before I finally found myself disoriented and downstream.

So…rafting in Ottawa next summer? Or the rockies? Anyone? Because I am so in. Seriously.

The ride back to camp from Itanda Falls was close to fourty minutes along dirt roads in rural Uganda. Red dust, mud huts and naked babies in the late day sun. I spent the trip perched atop the back of a converted cattle truck, clutching the metal bars. A wooden bust on a sailing vessel, perhaps with messier hair. A moment I wish I could repeat over and over.

The night occurred sprawled on red lit couches in an open building. A thatched roof, a sand floor, and a spectacular view of Bujagali falls (the first grade 5 of the day!). Two rafts clinking glasses to a job well done. I even got the Ugandan bartenders to play my ipod over the speaker system for a good few hours. Eventually we retired, not to bed, but rather to the field to rehash the day and star gaze. Or more accurately, befriend three friendly camp dogs and play our infamous scenario-digital-camera-game. Something long ago perfected in Kathryn’s Etobicoke basement with the likes of one lovely Katie Hamilton.

For instance, what would you do if…

…suddenly everyone on the raft is wearing scandelously small serbian speedos…
…suddenly you come out of a rapid and all of your clothes have been ripped off in the process (apparently Kathryn would be happy. haha)…
…if you involuntarily swallow way too much water, (which later became known as ‘sips of the nile’)…
… if you could ride on the top of a cattle truck all day every day…

...etc etc...

So yeah. In conclusion, Uganda = Amazing.

...Depite our last taxi driver at 5 am taking us to the bus station. He had to shake the car back in forth to keep it from running out of gas. Kathryn and I flailing around the back seat in the dark. But I got to watch the sun rise on our bus back to kampala.

I feel as though significant moments in my life (if only internally) are always tied to either sitting in cars, rainstorms, the early mroning or some combination of the three.

Either way, I routinely forget how pretty it is.

l.

snake on the road.

2007-11-01T04:54:00.001-04:00

First of all, I need to say, I am astounded by both the amount and content of responses I have received in regards to my last post. Whether public or private they were all honest, open and insightful. I feel privileged to have such supportive family and friends, who are so willing to discuss with me, regardless of differing opinions or beliefs. So thank you.

I was (obviously) feeling a little spent last week, so I decided to take off with five other canadian ex-pats to Gisenyi. A border town on Lac Kivu, brimming with tropical languor, poverty, abandoned architectural remnants of colonialism, and great swimming. We stayed in an old mansion turned hotel, with enormous windows that opened wide, (I definitely spent a good chunk of the weekend curled up reading on our two foot deep wooden window sill). If you looked one way you had a fantastic view of the water, if you looked the other you saw Goma. A tiny town in the DR of Congo, half buried under volcanic rock after an eruption in 2005. I walked to border on our second day. A metal bar swung open and shut. Shocked that there is more security around a house in Kigali, then the border to a country with a foreign affairs warning.

The six of us were looking for adventure, and made it our mission to find the Ginsenyi hot springs. Volcanic hot springs; sounds great right? WRONG. After taking an unnecessary and expensive boat ride across a channel (it was easily walkable) in loud fluorescent mandatory over-sized life jackets, we arrived at the hot springs…or should I say hot puddles. Hot puddles full of naked children and men in see-through underpants bathing.

Awkward.

But, we were not deterred, promptly stripped down to our bathing suits, and joined the group. This was clearly quite a spectacle and immediately attracted an audience. Overall it was rather hilarious. The “springs” were also “run” by an old man sporting an enormous moth eaten fur hat, and multiple strands of wooden beads. He shuffled about shaking a large stick, and muttering in Kinyarwanda the entire time. Although, I’m not sure he would have been comprehensible, even if I spoke the language.

I think it was good to get away, and clear my head a bit. Also, Sometimes it is just nice to hang out with other canadians. People who understand your humour, references, & perspectives. People you don’t have to explain yourself to. There is something undeniably refreshing about that. I am happy enough to be outside my culture and comfort zone, I just start to go a little crazy when I get home at night and often realize I haven’t had a legitimate conversation all day. I have begun helping prepare a large meal for street kids in the gikondo district every Friday. Five or so hours of peeling potatoes and shredding cabbage with big rwandan mamas. The last time I went they gave me a kiyarwandan name. Uwitonze, meaning quiet one.

Gisenyi was beautiful, but oddly enough, I think my favourite part was the drive home.

Sandwiched in the back corner of the bus, we left at dusk, snaking through the mountains. I have now seen my first live volcanoes. Towering black pyramids billowing a thick grey smoke that hangs in the air. A chain of seven in congo, and three visible in one of rwanda’s nearby national parks. Ten in total looming through the trees. It was unbelievable.

Then darkness fell and the drive continued. The interior the bus enveloped in slate overtones, silhouetted heads leaning against one another, or looking out fogged up windows. Every now and then I would run my palm against the glass. It reminded me of long ago family vacations. Road trips to the east coast, fair havens, the cottage. The back of our big brown oldsmobile. Writing names and drawing pictures with delicate fingertips. Gliding swift and steady across the cool wet glass. Temporary masterpieces in the moisture of a humid interior. It was these same nights that sarah, christine and I would loosen our seatbelts, sit on our pillows, and rest our heads on the back dash staring upwards. We would watch the night through the reflection on the windshield, and pretend to be astronauts with only a window full of stars. Barrelling vertical in stead of horizontal.

But this night, I only cleared my view in one quick gesture to see the stars, still sitting static. It made me miss my sisters.

Under stark headlights, eucalyptus trees look suspiciously like birch and maple. And despite the deep valleys we skimmed the tops of, with no light to distinguish their depth, they merely appeared as expansive black fields beyond the tree-line. It was only in approaching Kigali that our height became tangible. A series of flashlights gripped at the base of a large dark funnel.

And then our bus hit a snake, and backed-up the road for a good two minutes to avoid supposed bad luck. Only then did I fully remember I was not in canada.

I feel I revert back to my childhood a lot here. Specifically fair havens, probably because it’s always warm and always raining. I watch the rain from my couch, and yet I am seven and sitting on our picnic table. Scraped and freckled knees tucked under my chin. Watching the water flood the gravel roads and pool in the edges of our green and white striped canopy.

Mom and Dad gave away the trailer a few summers back. A retro staple of my childhood. Its orange circle patterned curtains and vinyl seats that would stick to the back of your thighs in the heat. The bees caught in the screening, petrified after summers in the sun. The green canvas wings with tiny holes covered in duct tape that glowed in the mid afternoon; the summer my sister decided to use a sharp pencil to create her own personal universe.

Perhaps it is because, in many ways, this feels like one giant camping trip. A never ending summer of sorts. Not unlike my entire childhood.

Slightly dirty with lots of improvisation.

a question of faith.

2007-10-25T06:02:00.002-04:00

I suppose I owe it to expand upon the last statement made in my blog.

I tend not to talk about my faith a whole lot. I am of the mind that it is a guideline to live my life in the best most loving way possible, and not an opportunity to convert or condemn people. But I have been feeling a little blindsided since coming to Rwanda, looking for some clarification on things I am not able to wrap my head around. I am not confused by my role here. That is something I find very clear. I am to love, empathize, listen and mourn alongside, whether or not I am actually succeeding in said role is irrelevant.

I just have two questions (or more like 20 million). Kathryn and I have been discussing endlessly, and I have been delving into my bible a lot these past few weeks. But I am still hitting a brick wall. I am not doubting the existence of god, rather his involvement or lack of.

Thus, I figured I may as well attempt to open up a dialogue. I am posting this on my blog and my facebook, because I am feeling entirely at a loss, and looking for any insight I can get.

I will try to make this as concise as possible, albeit a little convoluted even to me.

The first thing is related to, but not, “why do bad things happen to good people.” It is not that simple. For I understand there are terrible things in the world. I believe in creation and evolution, like Galileo, simply viewing scientific fact as reinforcing the other. Anyhow, as I see it, just because god is all-powerful does not mean he is all-controlling, or the ability to choose wouldn’t exist. And if free-will doesn’t exist, then the potential for relationship doesn’t either. So he gives us free choice, even if that means choosing to do the wrong thing, even if that means choosing to something horrific. And because he is not a dictator, and lets us make our own decisions, we have the ability to affect one another positively and negatively. Therefore, I think most bad things exist because of the hateful and violent decisions individuals make on a daily basis. I do not think they are punishment from god, or any other such nonsense.

With that said, the bible shows us countless examples of god stepping in to stop bad things from occurring. So my question is this, if god does not inflict evil in the world, but is capable of divine intervention, where is the dividing line? When does he leave us to the results of others execution of free will and when does he intervene? And if he is merely taking a back seat to free will, what is the purpose of prayer in these situations?

I understand prayer as an open dialogue with god to build relationship, and not as a personal wish list. But we ARE occasionally encouraged to pray for the things we want, specifically including deliverance and protection. Does it matter if twenty people pray as opposed to one? I would argue no. and if god leaves us to the mercy of free will, however terrible, then why pray unless for feeling at peace?

We are told that faith the size of a mustard seed can move mountains, but you cannot tell me that the thousands of people who were mutilated and murdered in the places they went to worship, during the 1994 rwandan genocide, were not praying for deliverance, and had less faith then a mustard seed. Christians have a history of being persecuted (as well as persecuting – although that another whole conversation I have much to say about, and I think those are people who missed the whole point… aaaaaanyay), but this conflict was not based on religion, rather a muddled ethnic divide, resulting more from economic class distinction, and decades of resentment inflated by sheer propaghanda.

I can see god in the aftermath of the genocide. In the reconciliation, the peace movements, the strength of character, the immense examples of forgiveness, the unwavering faith of those involved. I mean I just returned home from three day trauma healing workshop, where genocide survivors and genocide perpetrators, now released prisoners, sat side by side, worked in groups and openly dialogued in an attempt to bring peace and reconciliation to their communities. Genuine forgiveness and genuine regret. I can see god in that, I don’t believe it is possible otherwise. Maybe that’s just me.

but I cannot see god in the genocide itself. And I am having difficulty understanding why not, because I refuse to believe that god is a vengeful, vindictive or removed deity.

where is the dividing line and why didn’t it fall on the other side of this conflict?

thoughts anyone?

a hard day.

2007-10-21T06:27:00.001-04:00

I am amazed at how quickly I can switch between feeling entirely capable and content here, to feeling completely overwhelmed. And this has been a weekend of the latter. So I am sorry if this is a little dark. I do not mean for this to be sensationalist. At all. I just need to write a bit, in an attempts to process.

I must preface the following, with the fact that my time in Rwanda has been unbelievably positive thus far. This is a beautiful country full of astounding people. Sadly it is also a country with a tragic past and complicated present. I am thankful that I am now able to associate so many things other than the genocide with this place. However, I think everyone should visit Rwanda, to see how far it has come and learn from its history. The extensive reconciliation occurring here is a humbling experience, and is proving to be an enormous lesson in forgiveness.

We visited one of the larger genocide memorials on the outskirts of Kigali yesterday afternoon.

I have been struggling with whether or not I wanted to go, but I have realized it is not a matter of wanting to go. But needing to go. I needed to face the things that happened here head on, to better understand them, and to pay respect to the people I have come to know as my colleagues and friends.

Yet three things specifically incited my decision this week.

First of all, Kathryn and I have decided to participate in a HROC workshop in a small village outside the city. We leave today. It is a three day seminar, which works to bring together genocide survivors with genocide perpetrators families, or the genocidaires themselves. This is to promote reconciliation and reintegration, as many people have never received any trauma councilling, and multiple prisoners have completed their sentences and are now being released back into their same communities.

Secondly, I rode behiend a dead body strapped to the top of a cattle truck last Sunday. It is the first time I have been confronted with a corpse outside of a coffin. Death has always been altered faces caked with thick layers of make up. Death is Wards Funeral Home in Weston. Death is oversized bouquets above shells of those who no longer resemble the people I love. It has become a formula of sorts. Not a body tied carelessly across three metal bars with no shred of dignity or respect. I am not sure which bothered me more; the fact that I was witnessing a corpse parading through the streets of a major city, or the fact that no one seemed to notice.

Perhaps when death is so a part of your history, you become complacent, or more accurately, numb. I am sure the pedestrians on the side of the rode that morning, have witnessed far worse within their lifetime, then the limp legs of a dead man swaying with the bumps on the road.

Thirdly, this week it really hit me the extent to which I am living in history. I discovered that my neighbourhood was home to the UN Belgium base in 1994. I pass by the building itself multiple times each day as it is adjacent to our market in kicukiro centre. A large white building with a promenade lined in palm trees. During the genocide thousands of tutsis and hutu-moderates sought refuge there under UN protection. So when Belgium lost ten soilders and decided to pull all of their troops, thousands of people were left vulnerable to be slaughtered. After the attack there, the interhamwe rounded up any survivors in Kicukiro and the surrounding areas. They were forced to march north to Sonotubes, a round-about approximately ten minutes down the road from us. But deciding it was too public a place for a mass execution, these people were turned back around and began a death march back through kicukiro. They walked directly past the compound we live behind, and were all killed on the top of the hill we live on.

And so yesterday we went to the memorial.

To be honest, I don’t really have the emotional stamina to re-write and re-hash, so I will simply include what I scrawled in my journal upon arriving home last night:

“I sat in a room of faded photographs and cried this afternoon. Hundreds and hundreds stung along metal wires. Faces frozen in emulsion. Weddings and birthdays. Studio portraits and candid snapshots.

I walked the paths of mass graves.

258,000 people beneath concrete slabs.

I browsed cases of skulls and femurs.

Only 2000 names known.

I knew the history, the stories, the statistics coming in. but it is entirely different being here, living here. Putting visuals to words.

It is nothing short of horrifying.

The seond floor was a memorial for children. Floor to ceiling photographs, each accompanied with a small write up. Name. age. Favourite: drink, toy, song. Best friend. Demeanor. Last words. Cause of death.

Hacked with machetes.

Bludgeoned with a club.

Shot in mothers arms.

Stabbed in the eyes, then in the head.

I have just sat here for the past few moments with my pen hovering above the paper.

I am at a complete loss for words.

I don’t know what to say.

This isn’t just information I am able to file away. I cannot imagine having lived through this. And the fact of the matter is everyone I see, everyday, were and currently are affected by the events of thirteen years ago.

A dark and swiftly flowing undercurrent.”

Yesterday afternoon was difficult.

I am wrestling with God a lot these days.

thanksgiving africa styles.

2007-10-11T09:33:00.001-04:00

I dedicate this entry to sammi smith.

1. because I have now vanquished the pests you always feared, first hand and in abundance. And…
2. because I have also become the cook extraordinaire, you and the food network, always hoped I might be for the past two years we lived together.

A few Saturdays ago, it was becoming increasingly clear that we had a cockroach problem. After a june-bug-thought-cockroach incident at 383 queen west two summers ago, (which caused hours of google-image-searching to ensue), I have become quite the expert on distinguishing what is and what is not this dreaded insect. And we most definitely had roaches.

One day there was one. The next day there were twenty. However, the last straw was the day Kathryn woke up to a roach nearly two inches in length beside her pillow. So the war was on. My pacifist ideals set aside for a day.

The first item on the agenda was to gut the kitchen; a dimly lit closet of a room, with wooden shelves running the length of one wall, two petrol burners on cinderblocks and a sink that drains onto the floor (this was before the glorious addition of a bar fridge and toaster oven last Wednesday). They scattered with every object removed. Black streams pouring over edges. Encampments within precarious stacks of dishes. Families in paper bags. Six or more under each egg. Cinder blocks the equivilent of an apartment complex.

Equipt with cans of BOP (the African version of Raid), bandanas, fly swatters and a giant bottle of bleach, we won the war – after hours of washing everything on the lawn.

Now... we suspect that rats are living (and fighting?) in the ceiling.

In other news, to everyone's suprise (specifically ours) we had a thanksgiving dinner! Granted it took place in shorts on a humid monday evening, but thanksgiving none the less! Using our joke of a kitchen - now cockroach free - Kathryn and I managed to cook up a dinner for seven; including a honey glazed ham, stuffing, brown sugar carrots, curried green beans, apple & japanese plum chutney, mashed potatoes, french rolls, hot apple cider, and our crowning achievement of not one, but two, PUMPKIN PIES from scratch. Who knew pumpkins even exist in africa? Although, I think we may have found the only one.

We were regular 1950's housewives. Although, I doubt those women had a sing-a-long to the weakerthans while they cooked.

In conclusion we have established that we are a cooking powerhouse, and upon returning to canada, will be the ultimate canoe-tripping, camping duo.

It was hard being away from home, when my entire family was at the cottage together for the first time in six years. There was definitely more then one moment where all I wanted was to be bundled in a sweater and toque, lying on the dock. A crisp fall day, the forest the colour of fire. But I chose to be here, and it was still a good weekend. There are just times when i wish i could transport myself home for one afternoon, one evening. At least being here reminds me I how much i really do have to be thankful for.

happy (slightly belated) thanksgiving!

l.

i'm not as technologically inept as i initially thought!

2007-10-03T14:00:00.001-04:00

well i finally figured out how to post some photos! lucky you! it has taken me any hours with a bad connection, over many days.

me & a four seater bike in amsterdam.

catching my flight in nairobi!

the "road" by our house (after it was fixed with large rocks)

kathryn and our first pineapple! This is ourside our house and our dog bogie is in the background. we love him.

motos!

residents of kigali have been complaining that everyones getting malaria, so they are spraying everyone's house. Therefore, in our second week, we had less less than 24 hours notice to gut our entire house so that it could be sprayed by this man with poison. yay!

We met this woman in Kibuye. She is part of the Friends Peace House Femme En dialogue program, bring together Hutu & Tutsi women after the genocide for community building projects. and this is kibuye.... i'm getting kicked out of the internet cafe. more later!

i love rwanda.

Hello, my name is Rola.

2007-09-26T11:59:00.001-04:00

I am writing quickly in the downtown core of the city, before going out for dinner with some friends. I would have updated sooner, but the other day I walked to my trusty internet cafe in Kicukiro, to discover it has disappeared. Like gutted-room-no-sign-disappeared. Weird.

As much as I have been enjoying my time in Kigali, it was time for kathryn & I to get out of the city. So we headed up to Kibuye, a small town on the coast of Lac Kivu across from the Democratic Republic of Congo, last weekend. And by "heading up," I mean death defying Atraco bus ride for 3 hours. Atraco buses are both the TTC and Greyhound combined, as they are run both within the cities and between them. But instead of streetcars or large buses, take a minivan, add two extra benches (five in total), put four people per bench (not including many babies - our ride home was 24 people in one minivan. TWENTY FOUR), throw in some tassel adorned windows, and a hilarious slogan in metallic letters on the back windshield.

Some good slogans so far include:
YEAH! (in that dripping blood font)
Rest In Peace (makes you feel so safe to get aboard)
No forget me.
50 Cent
20 20 Vision (just in case you were wondering)

...and my all-time favourite of a large photocopied cut out of Snoop Dogg with dollar-sign glasses on. Which is fitting considering, our soundtrack consisted of "gin & juice" to phil collins to jay z t sarah brightman to the BEST EVER "a whole new world" from disney's 1992 Aladin. I officially love rwandan radio stations. All of this occuring at 6:30 in the morning.

Our ride there was the equivilent of the last leg of driving to Tofino on Vancouver Island, if one was going double the speed, and passing cars at whim with little visibility. But it gave us a great chance to just to soak everything in. At one point, our van was being chased by a herd of little girls. Their deep royal blue uniforms fluttering behind like tiny wings. Baby swallows, swooping, laughing, diving. Their delicate bare feet smacking the ground, raising red clouds of earth with every step. One hand clutching dog-earred notebooks, kept safe in unico pasta bags, the other flailing wildly above their heads caught in a wave. A minature flock of birds.

Rwanda is unbelieveably beautiful. The Mille Collines is aptly named, if not an understatement.

And i can honestly say that Kibuye is one of the prettiest places I have been in my life. We stayed at the St. Jean guesthouse in a tiny stone cabin, on a tropical looking penninsula, hundreds of feet above the water for only 10 dollars a night. Every morning I would sit overlooking miles of mountains and the lake drinking tea & drawing, listening to fisherman singing far below. Odd that such a peaceful place was a location for such horrific events, as Kibuye where one of the most comprehensive slaughter of tutsis occured during the genocide. 11,400 people in less than three months. The only other thing on the penninsula was a church and genocide memorial. A beautiful building we attended mass in on sunday morning. A place of such sorrow, exuding so much life.

AND,

Life goes continues on in Kigali. School is well under way. i spend most of my day in a room equipt with 9 old singer machines, operated by foot pedals, a literal IRON iron heated by filling it with coals (and we thought the industrial irons were scary, my beloved fashionistas....), and 30 or so hilarious energetic students ranging from 15 to 22 years of age. So in some regard they are essentially my peers, but I think that is working to my advantage. The other teacher Samuel is only 22 himself. And needless to say all of the donated supplies were accepted excitedly, and have immediately been put to use. So a big thank-you to everyone who so generously contributed from the Mwana Nshuti school!

Also, because 'r' and 'l' are interchangeable here, my name is awful. I am either Lola or more commonly Rola to my students (or mzungu when they think i'm not listening). The girls were quite reserved with me at first, some still are, but five of them sat me down yesterday and attempted to teach me some songs in Kinyarwanda. Clearly laughing both with and at me. But it was a nice ice-breaker. The boys on the other hand have loved me from the start (perhaps a little too much..."how can you...show me..that you love me?"... ummm fake husband here we come!), but seem to debate my sewing abilities. Which is frusterating, but i suppose I'll just have to prove myself, as both a seamstress and a figure of authority somewhat. Regardless, all of these individuals are orphans or were street kids, and incidently have been through quite a lot.

So I am willing to wait on feeling accepted by them.

xo
l.

internal whiplash.

2007-09-19T10:43:00.001-04:00

This has been a bizarre week on a number of levels.

I think I am acclimatizing remarkably well. There are times I feel as though i'm back in Toronto, until suddenly, something snaps me back into the reality of the moment.

An invisible and internal whiplash of sorts.

Like when the water stops running for 3 days, or when i see a man balancing 16 (we counted) yellow jerry can water jugs on his head in the middle of "downtown," or when three men wearing pink uniforms are ushered past us on the way to the market by a guard clutching an AK47. Prisoners, past-genocidaires, doing their community service.

It is moments like these that i don't even know how to comprehend what i am witnessing, or begin to know how to respond.

We were invited out to dinner last friday, for my friend & neighbour Scott's birthday; an amazing indian restaurant called Khazana, down the road from the Mille Collines. The food was unbelievable, although i must admit there was something terribly odd about being served by rwandans in traditional indian garb. Especially, when the restaurant's clientele was primarily white. THEN because of Scott's birthday, everything suddenly went dark, a spotlight hit our table, and out of nowhere, our we were quite literally engulphed in a barrage of singing & dancing, that lasted for at least ten minutes. Around 20 people congo-lined around the restaurant, then continued to circle our table with drums. It was beyond surreal & quite hilarious. And I thought a Jack Astors sparkler cupcake was special.

And while moments like that are fantastic, there is something that all feels very colonial about the westerners here. We hired a guard this week, at the insistance of all north americans we've met thus far. Vioneste, 24 year old "orphan & christian" he proudly told us in our psuedo interview. We only have a guard though. Most westerners here, enjoy impeccibly high living situations, with a fleet of people working for them. And while i understand it is beneficial to employ people, I think I'd always feel a little strange paying people to do things i could easily do myself. Specifically when "payment" is near laughable.

Our guard gets 30,000 Rwf a month, less than 60$ US, to sit outside for 12 hours everynight, before he goes to school for a full day. Surprisingly we're paying him considerably more than most night guards make, and he was more than happy to accept the position. I think some people think we were foolish to pay him that much, whereas I feel as though I'm ripping somebody off. So we bought him a large golf umbrella, lent him kathryn's rain coat, my maglite, and make him tea/soup everynight.

Only a year older than myself, Vioneste feels just like Kathryn & I, as we play with our dog (or dogs? two more have arrived out of nowhere), chat about our days and generally joke around. Then internal whiplash occurs yet again, as i focus in on the three scars that run across his brow and cheek. And I am reminded that his parents we're murdered, and he headed up his remaining family of three siblings, at the age of 11.

We are not similar at all. In april 1994 i was having a pirate birthday party.

l.

a few lessons.

2007-09-13T06:29:00.001-04:00

disclaimer: mom, i'm sorry for yesterday's "lesson".

looks like i learn something new everyday.

today's lesson was that i am able to venture into the local market without rwandan accompaniment. I bought beautiful brown and green printed fabric & am getting one of the local women to sew me a skirt for 300 rwf (aproximately 80 cents).

yesterday's lesson is this. I love motor taxis.

they wait in packs beside the market. boys no older than myself, wearing oversized neon windbreakers and winter coats. Dozens of green & yellow helmets gleaning in the harsh sunlight, as they laugh & elbow eachother, rolling back & forth, reving engines. Odd religious slogans in broken english slung across the front of most bikes. They grin & surround us, i barely need to barter as they try to out do one another in terms of both cost and bravado. Little boys with inferiority complexes.

Despite being the most efficient form of transportation, (the buses are not only clausterphobic, they take upwards of two hours for an under ten minute journey,) with the roads woven in and around the hills, it feels like your quite literally soaring above the city. Walls of mud brick houses, stacked atop one-another, lining the deep valleys of Kigali.

and yes, i wear a helmet.

Tomorrow i am getting my official tour of the mwana nshuti - i am a little nervous, but mostly excited to be starting work. and tonight i'm going to a book club started by a few other westerners, individuals who work for ngos in kicukiro, and a few UN members living in the area. Should be interesting and i'm cannot wait for some new reading material.

we're hoping to post some pictures soon. but the internet is a little slow, so we will see.

in other news - there is a pineapple in my bag waiting to be eaten. so i will write more later.

much love.
l.

banana leaves & brick walls.

2007-09-11T06:25:00.001-04:00

it sounds like it's raining nearly all the time. Raindrops on a tent roof; tiny fingers beating out irregular rhythms outside our open window. Instead, it is just the wind blowing through the plantain leaves. I have learned that real rain is much louder on a tin roof. More like balled fists flooding our rooftop & front steps, then beating down the ground around them.

I have just battled my way through my first rwandan downpour to reach the market, my feet & ankles coated in a burnt orange mud.

we have taken this week to organize & orient ourselves. although I still feel a little lost in terms of both. So i have decided to update as often as i can, as soon i will have less time on my hands.

The most immediate struggle i have come up against is language. Whoever told me english was at all prevelant here, was lying through their teeth. It is an incredibly isolating feeling, when language is not a barrier, but rather a brick wall. My french is horrendous, but considerably more useful than my english. Despite being frusterated, i will attempt to face this all as one big challenge to better myself, but it is difficult when you can barely communicate with your roommates, aside from hand gestures. I am slightly dreading the school environment, where the students apparently only speak kinyarwanda. go team!

cue cards? check.

english on one side, french & kinyarwanda on the other. I intend to return to canada, as trilingual! (hah.)

I have already learned some kinyarwanda. Muraho means hello. Amakuru means how are you. and Mzungu means white (ie. my second name at the moment). Literally.... i step outside our yard, into empty back streets and i still her the far off call of "mzungu" despite the fact I cannot see ANYONE. Kids are by far the best. I have been hugged, high fived, and had timid attempts at english, more than i can remember.

However, the most entertaining, but most terrifying moment was last night. Kathryn & I decided to go for a walk after dinner, and ended up on the main road running through kicukiro. Imagine a two lane road with the level of traffic and intesity of speed as the 401, that you walk up along a thin gravel shoulder. (If I wanted i could reach out and high-five the passing motorists. Funny thing. I don't want to). Now, insert a CLAN of tiny children (all under the age of five) chanting "mzungu!" in high pitched voices on the opposite side of said street. NOW imagine these this giant group of tiny-baby-children darting between the traffic to get to your side of the street, still sqealing "mzungu!" while scampering infront of mac trucks and motor taxis. Despite our best efforts to stop them, we were soon surrounded, by a dozen grinning faces (some of which covered in stickers?) gripping eachother, bouncing with excitement. We attempted to engage them in conversation, but they had all fallen silent, with the exception of some giggling. After making sure they had gotten back across safely we continued on our way. I'd like to say this was an isolated incident, but i'm sure it won't be. And minus the involvement of high speed traffic, i really don't mind.

Well, we're going to attempt to venture into Centre-ville this afternoon(downtown - not a lame attempt at an amusement park on the toronto islands) , via the mini-buses (ie. delapitated mini-vans coated with people) to buy a phone and register with the Canadian Embassy.

Wish me luck!

l.

unaccompanied minor abroad!

2007-09-08T10:07:00.001-04:00

well. we knew it was going to be a good trip before leaving canada as we walked up to the klm flight desk at pearson

1. to be asked if we were "unaccompanied minors" (yes, i know our entire families + katie were there to see us off but... do i seriously look twelve?!?)
2. travelling to our final destination of afghanistan.

um. what. (blank slash horrified stares ensued).

however, three days, sleeping in a park in amsterdam, not really sleeping at all, killing hours in nairobi, watching the run way in bujumbura(burundi) lined with local men on bicycles watching the flights come in, and we are finally here in rwanda. NOT afghanistan.

we are living at a guest house in the Kicukiro district in kigali. It has spotty electricity, no fridge, no shower (go buckets!), a toilet we don't know how to flush, and a garbage "pit" in the yard. all apparently par for the course. kathryn and I have decided it will be like a long stint at the cabin. But the house is clean, our roommates are fabulous friendly people who have been more than willing to help show us around, we have a beautiful yard, and a dog named bogo.

it is still an enormous adjustment so far. culture shock is an understatement. but i know this will all take time. i suppose i don't know what i was expecting. perhaps that i might blend in a little better. but i don't. at all.

on our first (overwheming) trip to our local market this market, we were greeted with blank stares (from like one hundred people all at once), and the occasional hissing (not to itimidate... although it did... but to get our attention). however, our second trip out today, alone might i add, has been much better. we even (clearly) found an internet cafe. although the electricity has gone out once, and i'm hoping it wont again.

ulitmately, we have only been here for a day so far and i cannot even think of how to process or record all that i have seen. it is though kigali is life stacked, sandwiched and woven in and amongst itself.

i want to write, photograph, and draw everything all at once.

5 hours till take off.

2007-09-05T16:53:00.001-04:00

so this is quick, because at this moment i want to be having tea with my mom & sister. Playing with my nephew (who will be so much bigger by the time i return - which breaks my heart a little). Not staring into a computar sceen. Which would be a terrible last memory of being here in Canada.

5 hours till take-off.
which still feels entirely surreal.

i'm not sure if i feel ready. And because i cannot control what i am walking into, perhaps i overcompensate in preparation. My suitcases are filled to the brim with sunscreen, sketchbooks and everything in between.

I have been packing my days as full as I can. Perhaps I have convinced myself that these condensed set of memories will sustain in me in the weeks and months to come, when I feel so very far away and miss my friends and family so.

well i have too much to do still. see you on the other side.

l.